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Hidden-Treasure Beaches
Traveling rule of thumb: When the trip to a place sends you scrambling for your camera – and you know the destination is going to be even more memorable – you are in for one spectacular adventure.
Or, in this case, two.
Caladesi Island State Park in the northern part of Pinellas County and Egmont Key State Park in the southern part are noteworthy destinations in the St. Petersburg/Clearwater area.
They are 25 miles apart as the crow flies but definitely kindred spirits.
Caladesi Island
The approach is strikingly long before you get to the ferry. East-west Curlew Road and north-south Alternate 19, energetic thoroughfares, seem to form a vanishing point for hustle-and-bustle. Travelers heading to the island are soothed as Curlew narrows and nature takes over. Trees, walkers, sparkling water and wading fishermen set the tone. Many buildings have spectacular front or back yards – the forewaters of the Gulf of Mexico.
About 100 yards after paying the nominal entry fee ($5 for up to eight people in a vehicle), visitors turn left and head to the launching point for the ferries that leave regularly throughout the day. The ride over – $9 for adults and $5.50 for children – is exhilarating, showcasing views of Honeymoon Island, waterways and native animals and plants.
Thick mangrove forests eventually offer a peak at the disembarkation point and the ferry docks adjacent to a 108-slip bayside marina. For $20, visitors with a
boat can get a slip for a night and squeeze every minute of pleasure out of the island. For those with a taste for smaller vessels, kayaks can be rented. If you prefer to get around without paddles, take the pleasant 90-minute roundtrip hike on the Island Trail.
The area around the marina is a sweeping, manicured welcoming area with a concession stand, picnic pavilions and the park office. Restrooms are conveniently located.
Caladesi was once connected to Honeymoon Island to the north, but a Category 3 hurricane in 1921 – the last storm to make a direct hit on this area – cleaved the island.
Plant and animal life abounds. Caladesi is home to red, black and white mangroves plus sea oats, beach morning glory, sea grape and palmettos. You can also see sea turtles (seven nests in late August), tortoises, snakes, countless shore birds and possibly even a turkey.
The water, in varying shades of teal, is warm and inviting. The beach stretches to the tips of your vision but walking it is not beyond the imagination.
In addition to the wildlife, there is child life: a playground with slides, swings and bridges help entertain young ones.
Caladesi Island State Park, closing in on its 35th anniversary, was named the nation's No. 1 beach in 2008. It has undisturbed days that are a perfect fit on one of the Sunshine State's few undeveloped barrier islands.
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class="cmsBigger">Egmont Key
Although Caladesi is generally accessed by boat, hearty hikers can make it from north Clearwater Beach in more than an hour. Egmont, however, is accessible only by boat. But what a launching point it is. Identical to a journey to Caladesi, you're very aware long before arriving at Egmont that you are in for a special day.
Ferries depart for Egmont from a few different sites. Your trip might involve a drive to Fort De Soto, one of America's top beaches. The trip to De Soto, along the Pinellas Bayway and County Road 679, offers crisp views of the water and of the Sunshine Skyway Bridge.
The ferry ride from Fort De Soto takes about half an hour, give or take a stop for a dolphin sighting or two. Pelicans and cormorants cruise and dive as well. Once on Egmont, enjoy sea birds and sea turtles, box turtles and gopher tortoises, palm trees and beach grasses.
This captivating island, a National Historic Site in the mouth of Tampa Bay, is a fusion of abandoned military installation and undeveloped Florida, a two-pronged allure of history and nature.
Unspoiled Egmont features silence, other than waves and winds, plus silky, clean sands. It is unspoiled to the point that you'll need to bring food and drink. There are no gift shops, concession stands or restrooms. Sun block, insect repellant, sunglasses and a hat are must-haves for most people.
Egmont had small roles during the Civil War and the Third Seminole Indian War, before it became a key strategic venture in the short-lived Spanish-American War of 1898. Construction for Fort Dade was ordered on Egmont, but it was not ready until 1906. Between then and 1923, when the fort was deactivated, the island had electricity, telephones, and movie theater and more than 70 buildings.
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